My interest in the arctic began at age seven when my mother gave me a copy of "Bertram Goes to The
North Pole". This interest was re-kindled when I was stationed in Anchorage Alaska in the Air Force. I spent every Tuesday on loan to the Public Health Service Hospital where I did ear surgery on Inuit children. As we learned more about Inuit culture we became involved with Inuit art. Subsequently through my son Lee I participated in multiple canoe expeditions to the Canadian Arctic. This has been accompanied by reading many books about early polar exploration. For many years I have been a mostly silent participant in a Facebook Group (Remembering the Franklin Expedition) with an active interest in the history of polar exploration. More recently I travelled on a ship from Greenland to Nome which continued to solidify for me the history of the region and its relationship to contemporary arctic life.
I have just finished a book entitled "Surface At The Pole" by James Calvert. It is a fascinating story about another government sponsored polar exploration. Calvert was the commanding officer of the USS Skate which was our country's third nuclear powered submarine. The book described how USS Skate became the second submarine (after the Nautilis) to go under the North Pole and then the first to surface at the pole in March of 1959. It is well written, exciting and suspenseful. Calvert is aware of the historical importance of his voyages quoting explorers Fritjof Nansen of the Fram (1893) and Vilhjalmur Stefanssen of the Karluk (1913) regarding their ill fated expeditions. Both explorers though they both lost their ships became world famous.
What was interesting to me was Calverts descriptions of the Arctic Ocean.
At its deepest the Arctic Ocean is 18,050 feet but the average depth is 3,240 feet from the ocean floor. The ocean is perennially covered with sea ice (frozen salt water) which is usually ten to 200 feet thick. The excitement in the book revolves around concerns about the depth of the water and the thickness of the ice. Commander Calvert proved several times that if the ice is too thick the submarine would stop as if it hit an impenetrable wall. Concerns about the fragility of the "thin skin" covering the nuclear submarine and the possibility of catastrophe are well presented.
Calvert and his crew had to find thin areas of ice through which light shined in their search for "open leads" and polynyas (small lakes) in attempting to surface. Once they could surface they became quite aware of how totally desolate were their surroundings. This was exceptionally notable when the surfaced in Stefasson's Zone of Comparative Inaccessibility which appears to be south and west of the pole. This was an area where surface ice movements historically would not have been expected to carry trapped ships. Certainly Calvert and his crew would have been among the first persons to be in this area.
Of further interest to me was Calvert's description of the underlying topography of the Arctic Ocean. From the late 19th century when Norwegian explore Nansen discovered an ocean in the central Arctic until the middle of the twentieth century it was believed that the Arctic Ocean was a single large basin. Explorations after 1950 showed that rather than a single basin the Arctic Ocean consists of two deep basins divided by three transoceanic ridges. Calvert followed and studied the most central of these ridges called the Lomonosov Ridge. It extends from the continental shelf off Canada's Ellesmere Island to the Russian New Siberian Island's. The two deep basins separated by the Lomonosov Ridge are referred to as the Eurasia Basin on the European side of the ridge and the Amerasia Basin on the American side. The Lomonosov Ridge varies in width from 40 to 120 miles, and its crest ranges in height from 10,800 to 12,400 feet above the 13,800 foot seabed. Slopes of the ridge are relatively steep, broken up by canyons, and covered with layers of silt. This enormous submarine mountain range was discovered by Soviet scientists in 1948–49 and reported in 1954. Calvert was able to "see" and study this ridge with instruments in 1959.
Of personal interest is that my brother-in-law Bill knew Commander Calvert through some business dealings. He found him to be an impressive, highly effective no nonsense leader.